A journey through Navarra from north to south to discover landscapes, customs, medieval monuments, history, and gastronomy, traveling from the Pyrenees mountains of Navarra to the Bardenas Desert. The millennial route followed by the shepherds of the Pyrenees of Navarra from the Roncal Valley to the Ribera of Navarra, passing through the Zona Media, via the Royal Cattle Trail of the Roncalese Shepherds. To explore Navarra by hiking, biking, or driving. To travel with a partner or friends under the guidance of two exceptional hosts.
Nature
Explore Navarra from north to south through the Cañada Real de los Roncaleses. From the Pyrenees to the Bardenas Desert by car, on foot, or by bike.
Culture
Rural tourism in Navarra to discover the millennial route and the Pyrenean culture, churches, castles, monasteries, and medieval villages of the Zona Media, as well as the traditions of the Ribera of Navarra. From the Roncal shepherds’ attire to the Navarrese jota.
A route that crosses the territory of Navarra and its cultures. The millennial culture of the Roncal shepherds, the rafts that traverse the entire region, and the medieval churches of the Zona Media of Navarra.
Gastronomy
From shepherd’s breadcrumbs and Roncal cheese to the wines of the Zona Media and the vegetables of the Ribera of Navarra.
Villages
From the mountain farmhouses to the medieval villages of the Zona Media of Navarra and the Christian, Jewish, and Muslim cultures of the Ribera.
Hosts of the Cañada de los Roncaleses Route
Hosts of the Cañada de los Roncaleses Route
María Ángeles Ezquer
Discover the territory of the Navarrese Pyrenees and the Cañada Real of the Roncal shepherds with María Ángeles Ezquer. A mountaineer, expert in the nature, culture, and gastronomy of the Pyrenees of Navarra, and a ski instructor.
Ramón Navarro
Passionate about culture, gastronomy, and sustainability. He knows the Zona Media and the Ribera of Navarra, their culture, folklore, and typical Navarrese dishes, and all the opportunities to explore nature on foot, by bike, or by car, a journey between the mountains and the Bardenas Desert.Recommendations of the Area by Ramón Navarro
Las Cañadas Reales of the Roncal and Salazar Shepherds
The Cañadas Reales of the Roncal and Salazar shepherds, dating back to the 9th century, are ancient transhumance routes intertwined with the medieval history of the region. These paths cross the Sangüesa region, where they intersect with the Camino de Santiago and what was once the Marca Hispánica. This buffer zone, established by Emperor Charlemagne, was created to protect Christian territory from early Muslim incursions through agreements with the Basque rulers. However, after the breakdown of these agreements and the Frankish takeover of Pamplona, the Kingdom of Navarra was established, taking its name from the city itself. The region of Sangüesa and its surrounding area bear witness to the origins of this ancient kingdom and the forging of Navarrese identity. Today, these historic locations allow visitors to explore and understand the origins of the old kingdom and the enduring identity that still prevails.
Road Trip The Original Basque
- Monasterio de Leyre: This monastery holds great significance for the people of Navarra, as it is the resting place of the first kings of Pamplona. Today, it is inhabited by a Benedictine community that keeps the monastic tradition alive.
- Sangüesa: The city is home to the Church of Santa María la Real, renowned for its impressive Romanesque portal, crafted by master Leodigarius. This church is a notable example of Romanesque art on the Camino de Santiago.
- San Andrián de Vadoluengo: Located on the outskirts of Sangüesa, rumors say this private estate is the birthplace of Ferdinand the Catholic. To visit the site, it is necessary to contact the owner.
- Roman City of Santa Criz Eslava: This archaeological site is situated next to an ancient Basque settlement, offering a fascinating glimpse into the Roman influence in the region.
- Gallipienzo: This picturesque village, once an important watchtower of the old kingdom, offers spectacular views and a unique historic atmosphere.
Trekking Trip The Original Basque
- Despoblado de Peña: This ancient village, located in a commanding position over the Sangüesa basin and the Ebro River, can be explored by following the cañada real of the Salazar shepherds.
- San Zoilo de Cáseda: Here, you’ll find a unique church adorned with graffiti depicting naval battles, an interesting testament to local history.
- Gallipienzo: Visit the Church of San Salvador and the tower of the hermitage, as well as explore the interpretive trail of the Kaparreta Nature Reserve and the green gorge of the Aragón River. This route follows the cañada real of the Salazar shepherds.
- Uxue: This village is famous for its church-fortress, which stands out for its defensive architecture and its role in local history.
- Olite: A visit to this town includes the splendid Royal Palace, built by Charles III the Noble to impress his Castilian fiancée. This palace is a gem of medieval architecture.
Wheel Trip The Original Basque
This 4×4 vehicle tour offers a unique experience along the cañada real of the Salazar shepherds, emulating the transhumance from the highlands to the Bardenas Reales. The journey begins in Sangüesa, passing through Cáseda and Gallipienzo, and continues down the Aragón River valley. The route follows the river to Carcastillo, the gateway to the Bardenas Reales. From there, you can visit the Monastery of La Oliva, of the Cistercian Order, or head to El Paso to enter the Bardenas Reales, a unique desert in Europe.
The World of Wine
At the intersection of these ancient routes lies the Baja Montaña of Navarra, one of the oldest winemaking regions in the Iberian Peninsula. In this area, small producers work the land and craft exceptional wines using native and revived grape varieties. The mountain wines, made from old vines, offer an authentic taste of the local terroir and allow visitors to savor the true essence of Navarrese viticulture.
Recommendation for Two Days in the Roncal Valley by María Ezquer
Our host, María Ángeles Ezker, recommends places to enjoy the Navarra Pyrenees in two days from the rural house in Isaba, Catalingarde: hikes, scenic drives, village visits, local customs and traditions, Navarrese cuisine, and breathtaking nature.
Morning: Enjoy the stunning nature of the Belagua Valley and the Larra karst: pure Pyrenees.
We propose three routes around Isaba, one of the most beautiful villages in Navarra. These options take you into the Navarra Pyrenees, offering different levels of difficulty: from a pleasant walk to high peaks, reaching over 2,500 meters in altitude.
1. Walk through La Contienda along the marked cross-country ski trails.
Starting at the helicoidal curve near the La Contienda cross-country ski station, you can explore the Larra karst nature reserve by following the ski trails to the Pescamou pass. For those seeking a challenge, you can ascend Arlás peak (2,040 m), or tackle the higher peaks of Anie (2,507 m) and Añelarra (2,357 m). These ascents are relatively easy in summer but require high-mountain gear such as ice axes and crampons in snowy conditions. For winter hikes in Larra, snowshoes or touring skis are essential.
2. Walk in Mata de Haya.
As its name suggests, this route takes you into a beech forest. It’s a simple and well-marked walk along the cross-country ski trail and can be extended through the Belagua valley. Ideal for families, the route covers just over four kilometers with only 95 meters of elevation gain, making it an easy and enjoyable walk.
3. The Swallows’ Path.
The Swallows’ Path is a marked trail that retraces the route women from the Roncal Valley took to work in the espadrille factories in Mauleón, France. While the full route takes several days, shorter and less demanding sections can be done. We suggest a circular hike starting at the Venta de Arrako, which ascends to the Venta de Juan Pito, where you can enjoy a traditional meal of shepherd’s migas, red beans, or grilled lamb.
The 6-kilometer hike, with 287 meters of elevation gain, can be completed in under two hours. A small detour will take you to the Arrako waterfall, and on your way down, you can visit Marengo Cheese Dairy, known for its excellent sheep cheese.
Afternoon: Explore the Villages – Isaba, Roncal, and Burgui.
1. Isaba
Isaba is the last village in the Roncal Valley before entering Belagua and the high mountains. Its tightly packed houses and cobbled streets are worth visiting after a morning hike. One option is to climb to the “castle,” a high point overlooking the town, once thought to be a medieval fortress.
To learn more about Isaba and the Roncal Valley, visit the House of Memory. If staying at Catalingarde, the owners can guide you through local traditions like wedding attire, widow’s dresses, and festive clothing. You’ll also discover how food was prepared, how livestock was managed, and much more about life in the valley.
2. Roncal
The village of Roncal gives its name to the valley and is a must-see. Stroll through the streets and admire the traditional Pyrenean houses, crossed by the Esca River.
Its most famous resident, tenor Julián Gayarre, began as a shepherd, shop clerk, and blacksmith before becoming a world-renowned singer. His House Museum is a must-visit, as is his mausoleum, sculpted by Mariano Benlliure.
3. Burgui
Burgui is known for the Day of the Almadía, celebrated between late April and early May. The almadías were wooden rafts used to transport timber down the river. Visit the Raft Museum to learn about local trades and traditions.
Burgui also offers a beautiful short trail, the Trail of Trades, where you can see a fully restored raft and learn about charcoal making and snow storage. The trail ends at the Burgui Gorge Lookout, where you might spot vultures, eagles, or other birds of prey.
Drive to Gallipienzo along the Royal Cañada of the Roncal Shepherds
As you leave the Roncal Valley, heading towards the medieval village of Gallipienzo, consider stopping at three spectacular natural landmarks in Navarra: the gorges of Burgui, Arbayún, and Lumbier.
The Burgui Gorge can be admired from the lookout near the village, and the road leading to Salvatierra in Zaragoza allows for scenic drives or bike rides through the gorge.
For the Arbayún and Lumbier Gorges, take the NA-214 road towards Navascués. After passing Navascués, stop at the Arbayún lookout for an impressive view of the Salazar River canyon. The Lumbier Gorge, crossed by the Irati River, is another birdwatcher’s paradise, home to vultures, kites, and many other birds. The gorge is easily accessible and can be explored by foot or by water, with options for canoeing or rafting.
From here, continue along the road until you reach the Pamplona-Jaca highway, then follow the NA-534 road towards the middle zone of Navarra, known for its wines, Roman temples, vegetables, and stunning medieval architecture.